, so i Always use Castrol, be it GTX or Castrol Classic 20/50, bearing in mind that is what Leyland ST Recommended and used in these engines throughout the 70`s , and if it was ok for Rally use it should be ok for everyday use Marina 1.8 Oil Change
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Uncle Frank
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Hi Trevor, must admit i usually just change oil and filter fairly frequently, this has always worked well for my cars over the last 30 years, however i would disagree with the type of oil some have recommended, i had a bad experience with Duckhams `Q` in a Mini Cooper years ago and swore i would never use the stuff again! , so i Always use Castrol, be it GTX or Castrol Classic 20/50, bearing in mind that is what Leyland ST Recommended and used in these engines throughout the 70`s , and if it was ok for Rally use it should be ok for everyday use
, so i Always use Castrol, be it GTX or Castrol Classic 20/50, bearing in mind that is what Leyland ST Recommended and used in these engines throughout the 70`s , and if it was ok for Rally use it should be ok for everyday use 
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marinabrian
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oil changes
when I was using my pickup regularly for work, I used cheap 20/50 (formula one from kwiksave at £2.36 per gallon), never used flushing oil, changing both oil & filter every 4000 miles, 4000 miles however equated to every 2 to 3 weeks, depending on how busy I was!
I managed to get 280,000 miles out of my first A-series before the centre main bearings let go. the moral of the story, all oil starts off as black gunk in the ground & if you change it regularly, there's no need to buy expensive stuff, filters on the other hand are a different matter, I still have around 90 GFE 150's in the loft
I managed to get 280,000 miles out of my first A-series before the centre main bearings let go. the moral of the story, all oil starts off as black gunk in the ground & if you change it regularly, there's no need to buy expensive stuff, filters on the other hand are a different matter, I still have around 90 GFE 150's in the loft
But there is quite a difference between quality oil and low quality, the low quality contains alot more of wax and other impurities.
But when changing every second week I guess it never get really old before changing anyway.
But for us changing once a year it does make a difference, and there have been quite alot of improvement to the mineral oil the last 30yrs too.
Oil contains almost as much additives to get the right properties, low quality dont use the best additives, they need to save money somewhere.
The additives do not last forever either, thats one reason you need to change oil every year, no matter milage.
And I do not really agree with the 20w50 is the best for a A-series, "because Leyland said so in the 70's".
In case of an old engine done some milage, having reduced oilpressure, sure, 20w50 is more less the only choice.
But an engine in good condition will in my opinion benefit from a good 10-40 oil, as it is more liquid it gets to the critical parts faster when starting, witch is the most crucial moment.
If the engine can hold pressure with low viscosity oil, then low viscosity is best, as it gets to where it is needed faster, and as long as the pressure is there, there is no "too thin coat".
And syntetic oil is better, it cleans better, it makes less sot, and last longer, but it costs, and dont last THAT much longer than mineral.
So it is a choice for the owner.. do you want the best, you have to pay..
As the second best is almost as good, and 1/4 price... choice is simple for me
The old "syntetic in a mineral engine equal leakage", is not much of an issue anymore either, the cause for this is in old days the syntetic and mineral oil made the gaskets swell different, some made them swell more and other less, so changing between different kinds, and even brands could make an engine leak, that is moreless a non issue anymore.
But when changing every second week I guess it never get really old before changing anyway.
But for us changing once a year it does make a difference, and there have been quite alot of improvement to the mineral oil the last 30yrs too.
Oil contains almost as much additives to get the right properties, low quality dont use the best additives, they need to save money somewhere.
The additives do not last forever either, thats one reason you need to change oil every year, no matter milage.
And I do not really agree with the 20w50 is the best for a A-series, "because Leyland said so in the 70's".
In case of an old engine done some milage, having reduced oilpressure, sure, 20w50 is more less the only choice.
But an engine in good condition will in my opinion benefit from a good 10-40 oil, as it is more liquid it gets to the critical parts faster when starting, witch is the most crucial moment.
If the engine can hold pressure with low viscosity oil, then low viscosity is best, as it gets to where it is needed faster, and as long as the pressure is there, there is no "too thin coat".
And syntetic oil is better, it cleans better, it makes less sot, and last longer, but it costs, and dont last THAT much longer than mineral.
So it is a choice for the owner.. do you want the best, you have to pay..
As the second best is almost as good, and 1/4 price... choice is simple for me
The old "syntetic in a mineral engine equal leakage", is not much of an issue anymore either, the cause for this is in old days the syntetic and mineral oil made the gaskets swell different, some made them swell more and other less, so changing between different kinds, and even brands could make an engine leak, that is moreless a non issue anymore.
Re: Marina 1.8 Oil Change
Flushes are a waste of money in my opinion, especially in a well serviced engine. I use Duckams Q in all my old Skodas.
David McKinney
[Treasurer of Skoda Owners' Club G.B.]
[Treasurer of Skoda Owners' Club G.B.]