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I was just wondering today how much a total respray would cost ?

Depends on how much prep is involved.

Drive in /drive out probably about £2K if car is solid.

If you can strip it and rebuild yourself then the cheapest is going to be about half that presuming they find no welding etc to do. My car took longer/cost more because of old micro blistering that meant some panels had to be taken back to bare metal. :roll:

My local panelbeater, who specialises in classic cars and hot rods, says the price of paint has doubled in the past few years. Reckons $NZ3-4,000 for a good paint job, after any rust repairs and panel beating.

£2.000 Is about right for a respray these days i`m afraid, the cost of paint alone on a decent repaint is about £500 with all the sundries etc, and as previously stated that could rise if you have to deal with rust, dents poor previous paintwork and panel replacement....it`s not for the faint hearted if you want it doing properly

Franks got it right I think, plus bodywork - wings, sills etc.

Hello Folks with you looking at scary prices on a respray,wow didn't realise they where so dear these days,have you considered hand painting your car? Before you all fall about laughing ,take a look at the link I hope I have posted.
I was looking at these pages a while ago and there is some bloke on there that hand paints his VW beetle and it looks top notch.
I have a modified traveller in the garage and I reckon that's going to get the Rustolium treatment.Worth a look.
Gary



Short link

Gary,

Frank and I are both talking about a professional job that will stand up at any car show. If you want to bring this down, do your own welding and then strip and/or the surface prepartion. The paint will still cost £500, so the rest will be labour and disposables, tape, paper spray booth time, baking etc.

The more you do the less you pay for.

I have seen some brilliant hand painted coachwork over the years, but it still comes back to the quality of the preparation which is mostly time with the filler, files, formers, wet and dry etc.

will have to do some saving up then, i would be doing all the stripping down etc so it would be practically a bear shell plus the roof wont want doing as its vinyl and is in good nick and original.

I asked a local paint shop for a price on a respray for my wagon(now everybody please be seated)$10k.If there was any rust repairs it will start to go up.I will be doing it myself.

So I guess that's about £5000! :shock:

dazza2623 wrote:I asked a local paint shop for a price on a respray for my wagon(now everybody please be seated)$10k.If there was any rust repairs it will start to go up.I will be doing it myself.

Geez! :shock: I thought my $NZ4,000 estimate for a resto-quality respray was a bit on the steep side! :shock:

Was that for a bare metal strip and prep, as well as for two pack modern paint in the bake oven?

What's the history of your wagon? Imported English wagon given 6-cylinder running gear, or was it a geniune Leyland development hack? Would it be the only wagon in Australia? Always puzzled me that Leyland didn't build the wagon, given the antipodean penchant for load luggers.

Hi.

A guy I often go to see and I'm making a special tool for is a bodywork man and sprayer. Talking about spraying the other day he says the cost of the paint and consumables has gone up drastically but it also depends on what paint is used, water based paint is more flexible (ie renault plastic wings) but more time consuming due to the necessity for each coat to be totally dry before the next one, as time equals money then this is more costly than two pack.

Thats just comments I picked up, I'm still using cellulose, less dangerous, cheaper, more likely to crack, shame I'm a crap sprayer.

Brian

Well Bryan where do I start.The spray job was for enamel.
The wagon I have yet to get a history other than it was from Melbourne 7 was used in some shows.
At some stage the engine was removed & a 6 put in.The fire wall was bent in,they half changed the tunnel to the Leyland type.
They cut bits & pieces out of the front to fit the engine & radiator aswell as welding in the engine mounts the wrong height.
The height of the mounts are right for a Leyland,but with the steering the same height as a Morris.The Leyland rack sits 30mm higher on the firewall than a Morris due to the larger tunnel.
I am not changing the firewall;I will run an auto box ,lower the engine mounts abit,& raise the height of the suspension to somewhere near standard to give me clearance underneath.
It will be running the Rover 4.4 litre P8 prototype engine in it.I will run twin SU carbs so I can still technically call it a TC & keep the TC grill & badges.
I was thinking of putting on a 16V badge on the tailgate to put people off.Well it will have 16 valves won't it ?

dazza2623 wrote:Well Bryan where do I start.The spray job was for enamel.
The wagon I have yet to get a history other than it was from Melbourne 7 was used in some shows.
At some stage the engine was removed & a 6 put in.The fire wall was bent in,they half changed the tunnel to the Leyland type.
They cut bits & pieces out of the front to fit the engine & radiator aswell as welding in the engine mounts the wrong height.
The height of the mounts are right for a Leyland,but with the steering the same height as a Morris.The Leyland rack sits 30mm higher on the firewall than a Morris due to the larger tunnel.
I am not changing the firewall;I will run an auto box ,lower the engine mounts abit,& raise the height of the suspension to somewhere near standard to give me clearance underneath.
It will be running the Rover 4.4 litre P8 prototype engine in it.I will run twin SU carbs so I can still technically call it a TC & keep the TC grill & badges.
I was thinking of putting on a 16V badge on the tailgate to put people off.Well it will have 16 valves won't it ?

Will sound better than those other 16 valvers.

Has it still got the English suspension and diff, or did they fit the 6-cylinder running gear?

The Borg Warner 35/65 auto was fitted to just about everything out of Aussie and England in the late '60s and early 70s. Should give you the option of going with the English or Aussie gearbox crossmember and tailshaft, and the P76 V8 box and bellhousing (was the tailshaft the same as the 6?).

iirc the gearbox casing and internals were the same, but the tailshafts, bellhousings and hydraulic controllers varied between applications. As Kilroy discovered, ground clearance is a bit of a worry with a lowered Marina. :shock:

I know we have gone off respray but will continue,The lowest that I believe you are safe from damage is 3".That is what the van & four door are set at.
The wagon has had the Aussie diff fitted ( ratio unknown ) & the front is still English but has had Leyland discs fitted.
The gearbox will be a 3sp auto & tailshaft will cope with the 8.